Boot or shoe



(No Model.)

S. I'. WHITTLESEY.

BOOT 0R SHOE.

No. 328,267. Patented 001;. 13, 1885.

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N. FEYERS. Pmwb'thegraplwr. Winningen". D. C.

NrTnn STATES PATENT Ormes.

SAMUEL F. NVHI'ITLESEY, OF NEW HAVEN, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO BALDVIN it LAMKIN, OF MILFORD, CONNECTICUT.

BOOT OR SHOE..

'SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 328,267, dated October 13, 1885.

Application filed August 4, 1885. Serial No. 173,570. (No model.)

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, SAMUEL F. WHITTLE- sEY, a citizen ofthe United States, and a resident of the city of New Haven, in the State of Connecticut, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Shoes with entire Soles of Cork or other Water-Proof Material, of which the following is a specification and I do hereby declare that the following is a clear, full, and exact description of the invention, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

In the manufacture of cork-soled shoes, as at present conducted, the maker, having first cuthisf uppers7 and soles,7 begins,rst, by lasting the upper to the first insole;7 second, he sews a rand or strip of leather similar to the upper all around the outer edges of the first insole when so lasted; third, he fits his cork sole; fourth, he fits his second insole to the cork sole; fifth, he then lasts his rand over the cork and to the second insole; sixth, he sews on the weltf seventh, he puts on the outer walkingsole in the manner well known to all shoemakers.

The disadvantages of this method of making corksoled shoes are, first, the extra expense and labor of two insoles; second, of the rand requiring also two inseams in fastening the first insole, upper, and rand, and in fastening the cork sole and second insole; third, the eX- cessive weight and clumsiness thereby given to cork-soled shoes as now made, and the eX- cessive stiffness of their bottoms, which frequently causes the edges of the inner sole to turn up against the foot of the wearer and diminishes the comfort; also, when the inner sole is hardened by moisture, causing the upper to break along the edge of 'the rst insole and the rand to break along the edge of the second insole.

By my invention of manufacturing shoes with entire soles of cork or other water-proof 'material these and other disadvantages are avoided.

In practicing my invention by hand I proceed as follows: First, the insole of the shoe having been cut and fitted to shape, I take an inner lining of thin leather or other material of the same shape as the insole, but about half an inch longer and wider than the insole; second, I place this inner lining77 with its smooth side next to the last; third, I place the cork or other water-proof sole duly shaped and trimmed nextto thisinner lining; fourth,

I place the insole nextupon the cork or other water-proof sole, andlhold the inner lining, cork, or other water-proof sole and insole to the last in the ordinary way; fifth, I put the upper on the last and last the upper together with the edge of the inner lining, which is turned or lapped over the cork, &c., sole and insole to and upon the bottom side of the in-A sole; sixth, I sew on the welt with one inseam to the upper, inner lining, and insole with one sewing; lastly, I. put on the outer walkingsole in the way ordinarily used in making all hand-sewed shoes.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating my invention, Figure I is a crosssection of the insole and inner lining. Fig. 2 is a cross-sec tion of a shoe on a last, omitting the outer sole. Fig. 3 is a cross-section of the completed shoe made by hand. Fig. 4 is a crosssection of a machine-made shoe, and Fig. 5 a longitudinal section of sufcient of a shoe to show my invention.

In making my shoe by hand, (see Figs. 1, 2, and 3,) a is the insole; b, the inner lining; c, the last; d, the cork or other water-proof sole. e is the upper. f is the welt, and g the line of stitches for securing the insole, inner lining, upper, and welt together. h is the outer or Walking sole.

In practicing my invention by machinery I proceed as follows: First, the insole of the shoe having been cut and fitted to shape, I take an inner' lining of thin leather or other material of the same shape as the insole, but about half an inch longer and wider than the insole, in the same manner as for hand-made shoes; second, I place this inner lining with the smooth side next to the last, in the same manner as for hand-made shoes; third, I place the cork or other water-proofsole,duly shaped and trimmed, next to this inner lining, in the same manner as for hand-made shoes; fourth, I place upon and cement the insole to the cork or other water-proof sole, and then cement the cork or other water-proof sole to the inner lining, and turning the edge of the inner linrIlhe insole is channeled att" in any ordinary manner to receive the stitches.

ing over the insole and cork or other Waterproof sole cemented together, as described, I cement 'the overlapping edge to the bottom of the insole; th, I last the upper to this combination of inner lining, cork, or other Waterproof sole and insole in the manner ordinarily used by manufacturers of shoes by machinery; sixth, I put on the outside Walkingsole and finish the shoe in the manner ordinarily usedfby shoe manufacturers with Inaohinery.

Fig. 4 illustrates this construction, the same letters of reference being used, and the heavy lines j denoting the layers of cement.

By an entire sole of Water-proof material I mean such a sole extending from toe to heel of the shoe, and not simply a sole7 socalled only.

I do not claim as any part of my invention the use of`cement or any other special fastening for holding the inner lining, cork, or other Water-proof sole and insole together.

I do not claim to have invented the Welt.

What I do claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. Ashoe having an insole, a superposed entire sole of cork or like Water-proof material, and an inner lining of greater length and Width than theinsole and Waterproof sole and superposed upon the Water-proof sole and secured by its overlapping edge around it to the insole, substantially as shown and described.

2. A shoe having the insole a, inner Waterproof sole, d, above it, inner lining, b, longer and Wider than the insole and turned down over it and the Water-proof solo, and the upper and Welt united by a single seam with the said lining to the insole, and the outer sole attached to said welt, substantiall y as described.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name, in presence of tWo Witnesses, this 20th day of July, L885.

SAML. F. VHITTLESEY.

Witnesses:

PHILIP POND, CHARLES KLEINER. 

